A Taste of Tamil Nadu
I almost swore that I wouldn’t publish any more posts about Indian food in Saudi Arabia. However, a recent journey to the Eastern Province city of Dammam changed that idea.
After a long and cramped bus ride from Riyadh, I was famished. Immediately after checking into my hotel, I ventured out for a stroll to find a bite of what I hoped would be ethnically exotic.
After walking for about a minute in the direction of the Persian Gulf strip, I peeked my head into a little Indian joint that was astonishingly clean.
Receiving hospitable gestures from a couple of the men that seemed to be running the place, I said:
“What kind of food do you have? Is it from Kerala?”
“Tamil Nadu.”
“Do you have Masala Dosa.”
“Yes have“.
I was handed a menu and invited to sit down.
My hungry soul was sold.
I’m a huge fan of Masala Dosa. This one was as good as I’ve had anywhere. The extra-long rounded and hollow pancake concoction’s center is stuffed with a cooked Indian potato salad. It’s broken off with your hands and dipped into the four refillable sauces in front. From left to right: Tomato, coconut chutney, curry, and mint chutney. This quintessential south Indian dish is fun to eat, delicious and healthy. It cost a mere 6 Riyal or $1.60.
This is the Tamil Nadu version of a South Indian Thali. From left to right the all-you-can-eat side dishes that are refilled on request are, ajar or pickled chutney, curd (like yogurt), sweet rice pudding, a vegetable called porlanga ( the word is from the Tamil language and impossible for me to translate at the moment), bitter gourd or bitter melon, beets, tamarind curry, tamarind soup, dahl (lentils) and fish curry. My absolute favorite that I tried for the first time here is the tamarind curry which I made sure to get refilled a couple of times. In the middle you see the Indian flat, crisp bread papadum on top of chapati or roti which is typically served for lunch. They also brought me rice. At the top left you see a moist and fresh fish fry which came with this set lunch that cost just 12 Riyal or $3.20.
This fish curry is perhaps the best I’ve ever had. Like the fish masala photo at the top, it was ‘dissolve in your mouth‘ fresh. This is because Dammam sits right on the Persian Gulf (called the Arabic Gulf in Saudi Arabia). The difference in taste compared to the fish in desert-locked Riyadh is colossal. In Dammam both the air and fish seem many times fresher than in the gigantic capital of Riyadh where I temporarily reside. This very tasty fish curry I had added to my Thali lunch above for a mere 8 Riyal or $2.13.
This father and son team of produce merchants asked if they could be in the picture I was trying to take of the Mas Restaurant from the outside. They thanked me and even gave me a banana. Like many Saudis I come across, they asked me where I’m from and thought it was really cool that I am from the United States. Saudis really seem to like Americans.
You see the Mas Restaurant right behind these fruit and veggie guys. It’s located on 9th street in Dammam, next to the the Gulf Flower Hotel where I stayed. This Tamil Nadu restaurant that I highly recommend is across the street from a huge post office.
Tamil Nadu is one of 28 Indian states and sits at the bottom right of the subcontinent, just above the country of Sri Lanka.
I recently spent about 24 hours in Dammam and the city next door Al-Khobar. During this time I ate exclusively (three times) at the Mas Restaurant because I enjoyed it so much.
My name is Mike, aka Earthdrifter. I managed to travel on and off between work, from the mid-90s till the mid-00s. At the start of 2011, after a five year exploration hiatus, I eliminated a home base and started traveling indefinitely. Now I combine my love for travel, writing, and improving my personal culture. As I enhance my existence, I hope to help you do the same. 
I don’t think you should ever swear off food posts, they are my favourite.
ANYNGELINA: Thanks! You’re so right. One of the greatest things about travel is the random, unplanned food spots that surprise us over and over again.
Well, I have only eaten that once and now I’d like to eat Dosa with fish and chicken items next time.
CJ: I find the more I eat dosas, the more they grow on me.
Great review Mike. A south Indian thali with fish curry is one of my favorite meals in the world!
MARK: Thanks! Yeah, that particular Thali was so dynamic and the fish curry was utterly superb.
I’m pouting. No denying it, no trying to take the high road. I’m envious and pouting. Dosa is one of the best things in the world and I don’t have any.
MARIA: Haha
. I agree. Dosa‘s are so good. I wish you luck in finding a South Indian hood somewhat close to where you live.
That masala dosa looks amazing! Have you ever tried to make one? I quite fancy having a go, but imagine it to be pretty difficult!
Oh – and please don’t stop posting about Indian food!
REBECCA: Thanks!
As much as I like to prepare food (mainly because I love to eat), I’m intimidated by concocting Indian dishes. As for Masala Dosa plus the accompanying sauces, I wouldn’t know where to begin.
India is a almost continent itself, and from what I read in your articles probably its food also is.
TUSCAN: I truly believe that India should be considered it’s own continent separate from Asia.
Mmmmm India is my greatest travel dream, and a huge part of its appeal is wrapped up in the food! Ever since I was young, dahl had been my favourite dish… and it’s surprising how much it differs from place to place, and from cook to cook! I love eating with my hands too – although with dahl I usually opt for a spoon!
I’m not familiar with Tamil Nadu so thank you for this introduction Mike!
SHING: I think that Tamil Nadu would be a fascinating place to visit. It’s possible to dip chapati into the dahl, I’m correcting the spelling now, thanks! You can also use your hands to dip rice in it. That takes a lot of getting used to though.
As for your greatest travel dream, I recommend having a lot of time for it. Although a plus is that it can be very affordable.
Love that last photo of the fruit vendor on the corner – nice shot.
PRU: Thanks! Not everyone here likes to have their photo taken, but this father and son duo were like the people in say, India, as they were honored to have a portrait of themselves captured.
The Indian food looks delicious. Will definitely give it a go when we go to Dammam. Keep posting dude!
SHENKO: Thanks! I neglected to add that they’ve got a huge array of dishes on offer. I look forward to getting your take on the place after you eat there.
Thank you for another delisch looking entry……Hope to talk to you soon!
Love, Mamma
MAMMA: Thanks! Maybe I’ll talk to you on SKYPE tonight.
Food looks amazing… I was briefly in Tamil Nadu years ago and I honestly don’t even remember what I ate, I remember it being good, but I didn’t have any of the scrumptious looking dishes like what I see pictured here…
Nice article and nice pics!
DARREN: Thanks! My guess is that they have lots of fantastic food in Tamil Nadu. I’ve never been but would love to get there. The people from there seem super nice too.